Hi, I’m Kirby Allison.
Here at The Hanger Project,
we love to help the well-dressed
care of their wardrobes.
In today’s video,
I’m going to show you how to shine a
pair of Allen Edmonds.
Factory made shoes like these Allen
don’t receive any polishing at the
because there’s no way to do this in
In order to polish a pair of new
it has to be done by hand.
So whenever you receive a new pair
of Allen Edmonds,
despite being as beautiful as they
they haven’t been polished.
So here at The Hanger Project,
we always recommend that you take a
bit of time to polish a new
pair of shoes.
The reason is that by polishing
a new pair of shoes you’re hydrating
you don’t know how long that leather
has been sitting
there without any type of
And then second you’re going to
build a really
nice finish because of the waxes
and the pigments
and a high quality shoe polish like
Saphir Medaille d’Or.
So at the end of shining a new pair
you’ve really brought those shoes to
and given them dimension.
And so because of that we
absolutely recommend that you take a
little bit of time
to shine a new pair of shoes.
Today, I have a brand new pair
of dark brown Allen Edmonds
cap toe oxfords.
These are beautiful shoes
that are straight out of the box
and as you can see they haven’t been
So although the finish is beautiful
they’re brand new,
you don’t see any depth
or dimension because of the waxes
of a nice shoe polish.
Whenever I shine a new pair of shoes
I like to start
with a little bit of Saffir run of a
Now the reason I start
with Saphir Renovatour is going to
and conditioning to the leather.
Again, you don’t know how long it’s
these shoes were on the shelf
and so it’s just nice to make sure
properly hydrating the leather
before you’re wearing them just to
leather soft and supple.
Here at The Hanger Project,
we recommend using the Saphir
the high concentration of pigments
is going to do
the best job recovering the leather
and renewing the finish.
Also the nice soft waxes
are going to begin to build
that protective wax finish that
gives a shoe the pop that you
want from them.
Next I’m going to use some Saphir
de Luxe Wax Polish
the hard waxes in a wax polish are
going to get continue to build that
protective wax finish.
Someone apply one
or two coats on the entire shoe
and then begin to build a nice
kind of high gloss finish on the
Now I’m not going to go crazy on
but I will use a little bit of our
brown sphere mirror glass to help
So I’m going to use a little bit of
Saphir Mirror Gloss
to just give a little bit of
and differentiation from the caps
from the rest
of the shoe. So lastly I’m going to
the laces with a pair of our
round waxed shoelaces.
Our Sovereign Grade laces we have
and Northhampton to the highest
and so it’s just a more elegant
Our Sovereign Grade laces are
available in 75
and 80 centimeter lengths.
These are size 10 shoes
and with 6 eyelets I’m going to
use the longer 80 centimeter length
just to ensure that the ends of the
laces are long
enough to tie easily.
If you have any questions during
this video please
ask them in the comments section
I get back to all those questions
The first step is to always
a new pair of shoes using the Saphir
The Saphir Renovateur is like liquid
it’s a mink oil based cleaner
and it just does an incredible job
into leather and hydrating it.
The reason that this is important
with a new pair of shoes is that the
leather has not been conditioned
it left the tannery
and you just don’t know how long
the leather has been sitting there.
So I always like to condition a new
of shoes to just feed that leather
which is probably a little bit dry
it’s been sitting on the shelf for a
So I’m going to remove the shoe
as I mentioned earlier.
I don’t always remove the shoe laces
I shine a pair of shoes because I
find that it
places a lot of unnecessary strain
but with a new pair of shoes that
laced, it’s a great opportunity to
So first, I’m going to apply the
Renovateur. I like to do so
with just a cotton chamois.
As you can see I’ve got one of our
Project Cotton Chamois
This is different than the high
in that it is plusher.
And so I find that it actually does
job applying green
polish with this chamois versus
our high shine chamois.
So just get a little bit of cream
polish on the tip
and then you’re just going to
it into the leather using
a medium to firm pressure
and small circular motions.
Now you can really see how dry this
was because once I applied the cream
polish you can see how it darkens.
Just like with anything that’s dry,
if it darkens its color
whenever you apply polished
to it it just means the leather was
Just look at the hydration.
I mean it’s really incredible stuff.
One of the things that I especially
about the Saphir Renovateur is how
You could really use it on almost
any smooth leather from calfskin,
to exotics so it’s just
a great kind of all purpose cleaner
It doesn’t have any pigment in it.
So again you can use it on any shoe
regardless of the color.
And if you’re only going to use one
to polish your shoes without
question it’d be the Saphir
After you’ve allowed the Saphir
buff it off with the horsehair
Since these are dark brown shoes,
I’m going to use my dark colored
And the reason that you would use a
bristle brush is more about just
your dark polishes separate from
your light polishes so that you
end up with any streaking.
This is our Hanger Project 100%
Pig Bristle Brush.
After just one coat of the Saphir
you could really see how much better
are beginning to look.
For one the beginning to shine
because the Saphir
Renovateur contains soft waxes
and second the patina,
the depth of the shoe is beginning
come out as you’re nourishing
that leather and feeding it.
You could always apply more than one
coat of the Saphir
The more coats you apply,
the deeper going to nourish the
But here in this video I’m just
going to apply
Step two, I’m going to apply the
Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish.
Now, a pigmented cream polish like
Saphir Pommadier Cream
is what we recommend for the primary
use in polishing a pair of shoes.
The reason is that when compared to
a traditional wax polish like a hard
a cream polish is going to do a
better job nourishing
and also has a higher concentration
of pigments in it that will do a
job re-coloring the leather,
renewing any scuffs
or scratches and then just
continuing to develop that patina
and the depth of the finish itself.
If you need any help choosing the
right color polish
for your Allen Edmonds,
take a look at our Allen Edmonds
polish color guide video that
we have on our YouTube channel.
I’m going to apply this Saphir
Cream Polish in the same way that I
applied the Saphir
Renovateur, I’m going to use a
and then just kind of dab it along
the leather so that
I don’t get too much polish in any
And then I’m just going to massage
the leather again using medium
to firm pressure
and small circular motions.
After you’ve applied the Saphir
Cream Polish I set the shoe aside
and allow it three or five minutes
So while the left shoe is drying,
I’m going to apply Saphir Pommadier
Polish to my right shoe.
Now that the polish is dry I’m going
out the polish using
or Hanger Project horsehair
I’m using our large brush
which honestly I prefer just because
and I’m less likely to jam
the shoe with the brush itself.
All of our Hand Project brushes use
100 percent tail hair which is less
shed and as you can see we also
pin all of her brushes to a higher
so you just get a better buff using
our brush than you do something
that you’d otherwise find at your
Another reason I like to use
at this stage is again it’s a
softer hair than pig bristle
and so it’s just going to do a
better job buffing
out the higher shine than what you
get with the pig bristle brush which
is going to take
more polish off.
Now that I’ve got this polish dry
I’m gonna buff it
with a horsehair brush
and you know what we’re doing here
is the friction
of the bristles against the leather
is going to pull off any
And then it’s going to begin to
So at this point you can really see
beginning to develop.
I mean look at that after just one
of the Saphir Pommadier Cream
these shoes look fantastic.
So again that’s why I really
shining a new pair of shoes,
even though they’re brand new out of
They’re never going to look as good
as they do
with a little bit of polish.
Another benefit of this Saphir
Medaille d’OR Pommadier Cream Polish
is that it uses
such a high quality wax
that not only can you see that a
is produced with much more ease
but it’s also going to be longer
And so it just persists longer
and it can be easily rebuffed by
rebuffing with the horse hair brush.
So there we go left shoe is done,
I’m going to set that aside
and then buff the right shoe.
So here we are with just one coat of
the Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish
and you can really see the shoes
to take a shine.
I always like to apply two coats of
Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish
pigments are going to do a better
and it’s just going to really deeply
and begin to develop that soft
Now one coat was great as you can
two coats is even better.
So I’ve applied two coats of the
Pommadier Cream Polish.
I’ve nourished and conditioned the
more than I did using the Saphir
I’ve added pigment to help grow new
and saturate the finish
and then the soft waxes had begun
to develop that nice soft shine
that you expect in a beautiful pair
of dress shoes.
Step three is to apply the Saphir
Pate De Luxe wax polish.
The hard waxes in a proper wax
are going to begin to build that
You want to be a little careful in
how you apply
a hard wax polish because if
you apply too much across the vamp
you’ll end up with cracking
or a wide residue.
So I like to apply one coat of the
wax polish to the entire shoe
and then I’ll come back
and begin to build up more of a high
gloss shine just on
the toe cap
and then optionally on the heel
The reason you want to concentrate
gloss shine on the toe in the heel
is because that’s the hard countered
of the shoe.
Basically these areas of the shoe
are reinforced with a hard piece
of leather that doesn’t flex
or bend so you don’t have to worry
about the waxes cracking
like what you would across the vamp.
I really prefer using our high shine
when applying waxes.
Now our Hanger Project High Shine
have made out of a super 180
and it just has a really tight
You don’t have to worry about any
getting onto the finish
and disrupting the shine.
So this is really the cloth
of choice for applying
S so I have a dark brown Saphir
Pate de Luxe Wax Polish.
And I’m going to apply it using
the high shine chamois.
My first coat is going to be
the entire shoe.
And then what I’m going to do is
just on the cap to really begin that
that high shine.
I have the first coat of
Saphir Pate de Luxe applied to the
shoe and allowed three to five
to dry. And then I’m going to buff
it off using
a special technique.
I’ll show you about a moment.
Now that the first coat of the
Saphir Pate de Luxe Wax Polish is
I’m going to buff off the wax,
not using a horsehair brush
but instead using my high shine
chamois with a little bit of water.
Now one little trick to get a really
shine is actually to use cold water.
So I took the water for this
out of the refrigerator.
And again the cold water just does
a better job hardening those
waxes as you buff it off.
So I’ve got a little bit of water on
And I’m just going to began
polishing this really
You can actually just dab a little
wax polish onto the chamois
and that helps also.
So this is more about really
that wax polish up to a high shine
than it is about buffing it off.
You can still buff it up using a
if you don’t have the time to do
but I just find that using the high
a little bit of cold water
and just a little bit of wax polish
is going to produce a higher glass
shine than buffing
with the horsehair brush alone.
We actually outlined this method in
another video called the
and this is one of the ways that
was able to develop such a high
on her shoes is she actually didn’t
any cream polish at
all. She primarily used wax
with cold water.
She’d actually use ice water.
And a nice cotton chamois like this.
As you can see the hard waxes in
the Saphir Pate de Luxe are really
beginning to elevate
so I’m going to actually apply just
a little bit
more of a wax polish
onto the toe cap
and let this dry while
I buff off the wax polish on the
And then what I’m going to do next
introduce the Mirror Gloss
and just show you how quickly
with just a little bit of work
using the Mirror Gloss you can
the shine of the cap
and how nice of an effect that does,
really providing just a nice little
Now that I buffed the wax polish of
shoe using my chamois I’m going
to apply a little bit more
Pate de Luxe Wax Polish onto the
and I’ll set this aside
and allow it to dry
and then after I’m done
with this shoe,
we’re going to transition to really
concentrating in the cap to develop
bit of a higher gloss shine right
Okay so I’ve finished applying the
Pate de Luxe to the entire shoe
and now I’m going to transition to
focusing just on the cap.
Now that cap is hard countered
and what that means is that there is
piece of hard leather that stiffens
this area of the shoe to prevent it
It’s what allows the cap to hold its
but that also allows you
to develop a nice high gloss shine
on the cap without having to worry
about it cracking.
So the way that I’m going to do
and it’s completely optional is
I’m going to use the Saphir
Mirror Gloss combined
with the Saphir Pate de Luxe to
really build that foundation
of hard waxes to allow us to get
a nice higher gloss shine.
The level of shiny you have in your
toe caps one
of the first things people notice
whenever they see
you so spending a little bit of
developing a higher gloss shine in
your toe caps
just sends the message that you’re
minds the details
and should be taken seriously.
I’m going to show you that using the
Gloss it’s really quite easy to
develop a higher gloss
shine in your toe caps.
The technique to develop a high
on the toe cap is totally different
the rest of the shoe.
What you want to do is you want to
allow it to dry,
and then just put a little bit of
on the toe cap itself.
Dab a little bit of Saphir Pate
You’re just going to buff the toe
light to medium pressure,
a little bit of water,
until a high shine begins
You’re going to repeat this process
reach your desired level of shine.
Developing a high shine on the toes
takes patience and time.
It’s not something that you can rush
and in the beginning it’s going to
look like you’re making
But then it all comes together right
Ok so I’ve got that first coat
of the Pate de Luxe Wax Polish
and nice shine.
Now this is the point where I’m
going to bring in the
This is a new tin of our dark
brown Mirror Gloss, it’s one of the
The Saphir Medaille d’Or
Mirror Gloss is really a quite
it’s a product that we had Saphir
especially for us
and it has a much higher
of hard waxes
and a much lower concentration of
So it’s a totally different wax than
PAte de Luxe
and it’s perfect for just developing
that foundation of the mirror shine.
So what I’m going to do is I’m going
to use the Saphir
Mirror Gloss to develop that
of hard waxes
and then I like to come on top
of it using that Pate de Luxe
which has a higher solvent
and really buff it to
a nice high shine.
I find that the solvents in the
Pate de Luxe almost melt the waxes
and that’s what allows it to really
to high shine.
have a nice coat of the Mirror Gloss
to this cap, now I’m gonna set this
Because the Mirror Gloss has such
a high concentration of hard waxes
it actually dries quite quickly.
But I’m going to give it a few
minutes to dry
while I’m buffing off the first coat
Pate de Luxe off the right shoe.
The Mirror Gloss is a really dry
just doesn’t have much solvents in
The solvents are what’s going to
wax and really help you shine
it and produce that high gloss
So the water helps
and I find that the water
with the Pate de
Luxe Wax Polish is like magic.
That’s not to say that you couldn’t
the Mirror Gloss
and a little bit of water.
You know that would work also.
I just find that the Pate de Luxe
just makes it that much more
But I like to use the Pate de Luxe
as the first coat because again the
solvents in the Pate de Luxe is
going to help penetrate
And begin to saturate the pores
of the leather to allow you to
So at its foundation the mirror
is really a three step process in
and of itself.
First you prime the leather using
the more solvent rich Pate
de Luxe then you begin to build
that foundation of hard wax is using
the Saphir Mirror Gloss
and then you finish it off
with just a little bit of water
and a tiny amount of Pate de Luxe
to really glacage
and elevate that high shine.
So we’re on the third step of this
so I’m going to apply a little bit
of water to my chamois.
Just just enough to dab
my Pate de Luxe wax polish
and then I’m going to begin to buff
those hard waxes
and the Mirror Gloss to shine.
Now again this is the part of the
you really can’t rush.
You want to use light pressure
a little bit of water just a little
bit of a Pate de
Luxe Wax Polish because you want to
pick up those solvents
and you’re just going to watch this
kind of melt
into a beautiful high gloss shine.
And you just need patience,
with enough time that
high shine really will come through.
And then of course depending on the
level of shine you can do this
So depending on the desired depth of
shine You can repeat this process
as many times as you’d like.
Once you begin to feel your chamois
across the leather that’s the point
you need to add
a little bit more water just to
help lubricate the chamois
and to prevent it from scratching
or disrupting this nice
mirror gloss surface you’re begining
So what you’re doing at a
fundamental level here
is you’re filling the pores
of the open grain leather
with wax and that’s what allows you
a smooth surface that shines.
And so as you do this you have to
the wax polish,
allow it to dry,
and then buff it to a shine,
and you’re essentially just building
of layers until finally
it’s completely glassy smooth
and that’s what creates a mirror
Now it’s not to say that you’d have
to spend 30
minutes doing this
or an hour.
Even just a little bit
of work like what you see I’m doing
here develops enough
of a high shine that the cap
really begins to stand out from the
of the shoe.
And that to me is really the goal
that you’re going
for here you just want enough of a
that the cap stands out
and someone can tell that you spent
a little bit of
extra time actually
shining your shoes.
You’ll never see anything like this
at a shoe
stand because anyone
that’s shining a pair of shoes in a
is just looking to do
the shoe shine process as quickly
So this is something you’re really
only going to do
You’re not going to find anyone
that’s going to spend
30, 45 minutes
shining your shoes for you.
Part of the hazard of developing a
high shine in the cap is you can
sucked into this you can just
into it end
up spending, it’s
almost hypnotizing, you get
by the shoe
and end up spending way more time
developing the mirror shine than you
intended on the onset
and that’s half the fun.
I mean once you really learn how to
a pair of shoes you begin
to really enjoy it.
I mean I find it to be tremendously
And you know whenever I’m wearing my
I just have a different level of
knowing that you know I’ve taken
care of them
and that they look absolutely
I’ve truly been surprised as I’ve
around the world,
the number of gentlemen
that I’ve met that you would
never suspect actually
enjoy shining their shoes
And these are people that you know
have the means
to easily pay someone else to do it,
yet it’s something that they prefer
to do themselves.
It should also not come as a
that a man
with a properly shined pair of shoes
is always treated better
than one without.
Whether it’s at the airport
or at a restaurant.
You can always see whenever someone
down and takes a look at your shoes.
OK I’m getting carried away I’m
going to have
to stop myself
but I’ve got an absolutely
I could easily spend another 10
or 15 minutes
and get this to be like glass.
But in the interest of this video
I’m going to set
this one aside
and begin working on the right shoe.
So I finished doing the mirror shine
the cap toe have these Park Avenues.
And again this is really
something you can fall into
and just lose track of time.
So I always try to step away from
shine process which is to give me a
separation from the shoe.
Sometimes I’ll even put them on the
to look at them from a realistic
because inevitably if you’re doing
the mirror shine
and it’s right in front of your eyes
you’re going to see tiny
imperfections in the mirror shine
that just aren’t going to make a
in the big scheme of things once
you’re wearing the shoes.
I’m going to replace these Park
our Sovereign Grade shoelaces
that we have made exclusively for
Here at The Hanger Project,
we’re proud to have one of the
and most comprehensive collection of
dress shoe laces available anywhere
in the world.
All of our Sovereign Grade Laces are
for us and Northampton,
which is the center of the British
and they’re made to the just the
Unquestionably prefer our Sovereign
Laces to the standard laces that
in the Allen Edmonds shoes
because it’s woven
with a much finer thread
and it just produces a more elegant
lace to me than the standard
Allen Edmond one.
If you have any questions about
shoelace to choose,
just take a look at our sizing guide
that we have
on every shoelace listing.
I chose 80 centimeters for this shoe
it’s a size 10
and has six eyelets so it’s going to
a little bit more shoelace than
a standard five eyelet shoe would.
My preferred method for lacing shoes
is with the straight across
or barbell method.
Just because I find it’s much
We have a full video on how to do
this on our YouTube
But the general format is quite
You want to start the laces
and get them to be approximately the
I’ve never been able to lace my
and end up with them exactly
at the same length in the first
I would say don’t worry too much
about that you could always
adjust the final length after you’re
And then what you’re going to do is
you’re going to go across
And then back down through the
And then this is the important part
and you’re skipping every other row.
So I’m skipping from here
And then going down.
I’m going to insert the shoe tree.
And then I’m going to tie the shoe
using our Berluti
Now we have a video on the website
to do this.
Of all of the different lacing
methods, the Berluti knot
is my favorite.
Because one, it is in effect
a double knot.
And then secondly it is
the most symmetric
of all the different knots.
And how you tie your shoelace,
again it’s just one of those small
little differentiators that kind of
you apart from the rest of the
As you can see even a new pair of
Allen Edmonds can use a first
Just spending a little bit of extra
these new shoes has transformed
what was a beautiful pair of Allen
to an absolutely incredible pair
that is really going to stand out in
of other shoes.
The extra time spent developing the
in the cap really to me is the final
that sets these shoes apart.
I mean having a nice shine on a pair
of shoes certainly
is going to set you apart from 99
of the other men out there.
But having a nice mirror shine on
toe is that final extra
step that just really takes these
into the stratosphere.
I can’t impress to you enough how
a difference a little bit of shoe
polish makes on
even a new pair of shoes.
Just to summarize how to shine a new
First we started
with the Saphir Renovateur to
provide the deep
nourishment and conditioning to the
Then I used two coats of the Saphir
Pommadier Cream Polish,
again that pigmented cream polish is
to help renew the finish
and then begin to add those soft
that’s going to elevate the shine.
Then I applied one coat to the
shoe using the Saffir Pate de
Luxe, again the hard waxes are going
to elevate that shine even further,
and then the next step is I elevated
on the toe. The hard countered part
shoe to a nice mirror shine using
a three step process,
alternating between the Saphir Pate
the Mirror Gloss,
and back to the Pate de Luxe.
And the last step of any new shoe
with a pair of Allen Edmonds is to
out the laces
with a pair of our Sovereign Grade
An old worn pair of shoe laces can
make a beautifully polished pair of
So that’s why I always recommend
the standard shoe laces
with a pair of our premium Sovereign
If you have any questions about
anything I discuss
in this video please ask them in the
below. I get back to all those
and of course please visit
where we have the largest,
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I’m Kirby Allison
and we love helping the well-dressed
of their wardrobes.
Thanks for joining us.
All credits go to Kirby Allison