How To Shine A New Pair of Allen Edmonds

How To Shine A New Pair of Allen Edmonds



Hi, I’m Kirby Allison.
Here at The Hanger Project,
we love to help the well-dressed
take
care of their wardrobes.
In today’s video,
I’m going to show you how to shine a
new
pair of Allen Edmonds.
Factory made shoes like these Allen
Edmonds
don’t receive any polishing at the
factory
because there’s no way to do this in
an efficient
automated way.
In order to polish a pair of new
shoes,
it has to be done by hand.
So whenever you receive a new pair
of Allen Edmonds,
despite being as beautiful as they
are,
they haven’t been polished.
So here at The Hanger Project,
we always recommend that you take a
little
bit of time to polish a new
pair of shoes.
The reason is that by polishing
a new pair of shoes you’re hydrating
the leather,
you don’t know how long that leather
has been sitting
there without any type of
nourishment.
And then second you’re going to
build a really
nice finish because of the waxes
and the pigments
and a high quality shoe polish like
the
Saphir Medaille d’Or.
So at the end of shining a new pair
of shoes,
you’ve really brought those shoes to
life
and given them dimension.
And so because of that we
absolutely recommend that you take a
little bit of time
to shine a new pair of shoes.
Today, I have a brand new pair
of dark brown Allen Edmonds
cap toe oxfords.
These are beautiful shoes
that are straight out of the box
and as you can see they haven’t been
polished.
So although the finish is beautiful
because
they’re brand new,
you don’t see any depth
or dimension because of the waxes
of a nice shoe polish.
Whenever I shine a new pair of shoes
I like to start
with a little bit of Saffir run of a
tour.
Now the reason I start
with Saphir Renovatour is going to
provide that
deep nourishment
and conditioning to the leather.
Again, you don’t know how long it’s
been since
these shoes were on the shelf
and so it’s just nice to make sure
that you’re
properly hydrating the leather
before you’re wearing them just to
keep that
leather soft and supple.
Here at The Hanger Project,
we recommend using the Saphir
Pommadier
Cream Polish,
the high concentration of pigments
is going to do
the best job recovering the leather
and renewing the finish.
Also the nice soft waxes
are going to begin to build
that protective wax finish that
really
gives a shoe the pop that you
want from them.
Next I’m going to use some Saphir
Pate
de Luxe Wax Polish
the hard waxes in a wax polish are
going to get continue to build that
protective wax finish.
Someone apply one
or two coats on the entire shoe
and then begin to build a nice
kind of high gloss finish on the
caps.
Now I’m not going to go crazy on
these shoes
but I will use a little bit of our
dark
brown sphere mirror glass to help
accelerate
that process.
So I’m going to use a little bit of
Saphir Mirror Gloss
to just give a little bit of
dimension
and differentiation from the caps
from the rest
of the shoe. So lastly I’m going to
replace
the laces with a pair of our
Sovereign Grade
round waxed shoelaces.
Our Sovereign Grade laces we have
made
and Northhampton to the highest
standard
and so it’s just a more elegant
beautiful lace.
Our Sovereign Grade laces are
available in 75
and 80 centimeter lengths.
These are size 10 shoes
and with 6 eyelets I’m going to
use the longer 80 centimeter length
just to ensure that the ends of the
laces are long
enough to tie easily.
If you have any questions during
this video please
ask them in the comments section
below.
I get back to all those questions
personally.
The first step is to always
condition
a new pair of shoes using the Saphir
Renovateur.
The Saphir Renovateur is like liquid
gold,
it’s a mink oil based cleaner
conditioner
and it just does an incredible job
penetrating
into leather and hydrating it.
The reason that this is important
with a new pair of shoes is that the
leather has not been conditioned
since
it left the tannery
and you just don’t know how long
the leather has been sitting there.
So I always like to condition a new
pair
of shoes to just feed that leather
which is probably a little bit dry
since
it’s been sitting on the shelf for a
while.
So I’m going to remove the shoe
laces again
as I mentioned earlier.
I don’t always remove the shoe laces
whenever
I shine a pair of shoes because I
find that it
places a lot of unnecessary strain
on the
eyelets
but with a new pair of shoes that
hasn’t been
laced, it’s a great opportunity to
do so.
So first, I’m going to apply the
Saphir
Renovateur. I like to do so
with just a cotton chamois.
As you can see I’ve got one of our
Hanger
Project Cotton Chamois
here.
This is different than the high
shine chamois
in that it is plusher.
And so I find that it actually does
a better
job applying green
polish with this chamois versus
our high shine chamois.
So just get a little bit of cream
polish on the tip
the chamois
and then you’re just going to
massage
it into the leather using
a medium to firm pressure
and small circular motions.
Now you can really see how dry this
leather
was because once I applied the cream
polish you can see how it darkens.
Just like with anything that’s dry,
if it darkens its color
whenever you apply polished
to it it just means the leather was
pretty dry.
Just look at the hydration.
I mean it’s really incredible stuff.
One of the things that I especially
appreciate
about the Saphir Renovateur is how
versatile
it is.
You could really use it on almost
any smooth leather from calfskin,
to cordovan,
to exotics so it’s just
a great kind of all purpose cleaner
and conditioner.
It doesn’t have any pigment in it.
So again you can use it on any shoe
regardless of the color.
And if you’re only going to use one
product
to polish your shoes without
question it’d be the Saphir
Renovateur.
After you’ve allowed the Saphir
Renovateur to
a dry,
buff it off with the horsehair
brush.
Since these are dark brown shoes,
I’m going to use my dark colored
bristle brush.
And the reason that you would use a
dark colored
bristle brush is more about just
keeping
your dark polishes separate from
your light polishes so that you
don’t
end up with any streaking.
This is our Hanger Project 100%
Pig Bristle Brush.
After just one coat of the Saphir
Renovateur,
you could really see how much better
these shoes
are beginning to look.
For one the beginning to shine
because the Saphir
Renovateur contains soft waxes
and second the patina,
the depth of the shoe is beginning
to really
come out as you’re nourishing
that leather and feeding it.
You could always apply more than one
coat of the Saphir
Renovateur.
The more coats you apply,
the deeper going to nourish the
leather.
But here in this video I’m just
going to apply
one.
Step two, I’m going to apply the
Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish.
Now, a pigmented cream polish like
the
Saphir Pommadier Cream
is what we recommend for the primary
use in polishing a pair of shoes.
The reason is that when compared to
a traditional wax polish like a hard
wax polish,
a cream polish is going to do a
better job nourishing
the leather
and also has a higher concentration
of pigments in it that will do a
better
job re-coloring the leather,
renewing any scuffs
or scratches and then just
continuing to develop that patina
and the depth of the finish itself.
If you need any help choosing the
right color polish
for your Allen Edmonds,
take a look at our Allen Edmonds
shoe
polish color guide video that
we have on our YouTube channel.
I’m going to apply this Saphir
Pommadier
Cream Polish in the same way that I
applied the Saphir
Renovateur, I’m going to use a
cotton chamois,
and then just kind of dab it along
the leather so that
I don’t get too much polish in any
one area.
And then I’m just going to massage
it into
the leather again using medium
to firm pressure
and small circular motions.
After you’ve applied the Saphir
Pommadier
Cream Polish I set the shoe aside
and allow it three or five minutes
to dry.
So while the left shoe is drying,
I’m going to apply Saphir Pommadier
Cream
Polish to my right shoe.
Now that the polish is dry I’m going
to buff
out the polish using
or Hanger Project horsehair
shoeshine brush.
I’m using our large brush
which honestly I prefer just because
the bristles
are longer
and I’m less likely to jam
the shoe with the brush itself.
All of our Hand Project brushes use
100 percent tail hair which is less
like the
shed and as you can see we also
pin all of her brushes to a higher
density
so you just get a better buff using
our brush than you do something
that you’d otherwise find at your
local
shoeshine store.
Another reason I like to use
horsehair
at this stage is again it’s a
softer hair than pig bristle
and so it’s just going to do a
better job buffing
out the higher shine than what you
get with the pig bristle brush which
is going to take
more polish off.
Now that I’ve got this polish dry
I’m gonna buff it
with a horsehair brush
and you know what we’re doing here
is the friction
of the bristles against the leather
is going to pull off any
extra polish.
And then it’s going to begin to
shine
those waxes.
So at this point you can really see
a shine
beginning to develop.
I mean look at that after just one
coat
of the Saphir Pommadier Cream
Polish,
these shoes look fantastic.
So again that’s why I really
recommend
shining a new pair of shoes,
even though they’re brand new out of
the box.
They’re never going to look as good
as they do
with a little bit of polish.
Another benefit of this Saphir
Medaille d’OR Pommadier Cream Polish
is that it uses
such a high quality wax
that not only can you see that a
shine
is produced with much more ease
but it’s also going to be longer
lasting.
And so it just persists longer
and it can be easily rebuffed by
just
rebuffing with the horse hair brush.
So there we go left shoe is done,
I’m going to set that aside
and then buff the right shoe.
So here we are with just one coat of
the Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish
and you can really see the shoes
beginning
to take a shine.
I always like to apply two coats of
my
Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish
because the
pigments are going to do a better
job saturating
that finish
and it’s just going to really deeply
condition
that leather
and begin to develop that soft
shine.
Now one coat was great as you can
see
two coats is even better.
So I’ve applied two coats of the
Saphir
Pommadier Cream Polish.
I’ve nourished and conditioned the
leather even
more than I did using the Saphir
Renovateur.
I’ve added pigment to help grow new
and saturate the finish
and then the soft waxes had begun
to develop that nice soft shine
that you expect in a beautiful pair
of dress shoes.
Step three is to apply the Saphir
Pate De Luxe wax polish.
The hard waxes in a proper wax
polish
are going to begin to build that
really
high shine.
You want to be a little careful in
how you apply
a hard wax polish because if
you apply too much across the vamp
you’ll end up with cracking
or a wide residue.
So I like to apply one coat of the
wax polish to the entire shoe
and then I’ll come back
and begin to build up more of a high
gloss shine just on
the toe cap
and then optionally on the heel
quarters.
The reason you want to concentrate
the high
gloss shine on the toe in the heel
quarters
is because that’s the hard countered
area
of the shoe.
Basically these areas of the shoe
are reinforced with a hard piece
of leather that doesn’t flex
or bend so you don’t have to worry
about the waxes cracking
like what you would across the vamp.
I really prefer using our high shine
chamois
when applying waxes.
Now our Hanger Project High Shine
chamois we
have made out of a super 180
cotton shirting
and it just has a really tight
weave.
You don’t have to worry about any
fuzz
getting onto the finish
and disrupting the shine.
So this is really the cloth
of choice for applying
wax polishe.
S so I have a dark brown Saphir
Pate de Luxe Wax Polish.
And I’m going to apply it using
the high shine chamois.
My first coat is going to be
the entire shoe.
And then what I’m going to do is
concentrate this
just on the cap to really begin that
build
that high shine.
I have the first coat of
Saphir Pate de Luxe applied to the
entire
shoe and allowed three to five
minutes
to dry. And then I’m going to buff
it off using
a special technique.
I’ll show you about a moment.
Now that the first coat of the
Saphir Pate de Luxe Wax Polish is
dry,
I’m going to buff off the wax,
not using a horsehair brush
but instead using my high shine
cotton
chamois with a little bit of water.
Now one little trick to get a really
fast
shine is actually to use cold water.
So I took the water for this
out of the refrigerator.
And again the cold water just does
a better job hardening those
waxes as you buff it off.
So I’ve got a little bit of water on
my chamois.
And I’m just going to began
polishing this really
quickly.
You can actually just dab a little
bit of
wax polish onto the chamois
and that helps also.
So this is more about really
bringing
that wax polish up to a high shine
than it is about buffing it off.
You can still buff it up using a
horsehair brush
if you don’t have the time to do
this
but I just find that using the high
shine chamois,
a little bit of cold water
and just a little bit of wax polish
is going to produce a higher glass
shine than buffing
with the horsehair brush alone.
We actually outlined this method in
another video called the
Berluti method
and this is one of the ways that
Olga Berluti
was able to develop such a high
gloss shine
on her shoes is she actually didn’t
use
any cream polish at
all. She primarily used wax
polish
with cold water.
She’d actually use ice water.
And a nice cotton chamois like this.
As you can see the hard waxes in
the Saphir Pate de Luxe are really
beginning to elevate
this shine,
so I’m going to actually apply just
a little bit
more of a wax polish
onto the toe cap
and let this dry while
I buff off the wax polish on the
right
shoe.
And then what I’m going to do next
is
introduce the Mirror Gloss
and just show you how quickly
with just a little bit of work
using the Mirror Gloss you can
elevate
the shine of the cap
and how nice of an effect that does,
really providing just a nice little
shine.
Now that I buffed the wax polish of
the entire
shoe using my chamois I’m going
to apply a little bit more
Pate de Luxe Wax Polish onto the
cap itself
and I’ll set this aside
and allow it to dry
and then after I’m done
with this shoe,
we’re going to transition to really
concentrating in the cap to develop
a little
bit of a higher gloss shine right
there.
Okay so I’ve finished applying the
Saphir
Pate de Luxe to the entire shoe
and now I’m going to transition to
really
focusing just on the cap.
Now that cap is hard countered
and what that means is that there is
an additional
piece of hard leather that stiffens
this area of the shoe to prevent it
from flexing.
It’s what allows the cap to hold its
shape
but that also allows you
to develop a nice high gloss shine
on the cap without having to worry
about it cracking.
So the way that I’m going to do
this,
and it’s completely optional is
I’m going to use the Saphir
Mirror Gloss combined
with the Saphir Pate de Luxe to
really build that foundation
of hard waxes to allow us to get
a nice higher gloss shine.
The level of shiny you have in your
toe caps one
of the first things people notice
whenever they see
you so spending a little bit of
extra time
developing a higher gloss shine in
your toe caps
just sends the message that you’re
someone that
minds the details
and should be taken seriously.
I’m going to show you that using the
Saphir Mirror
Gloss it’s really quite easy to
develop a higher gloss
shine in your toe caps.
The technique to develop a high
gloss shine
on the toe cap is totally different
than
the rest of the shoe.
What you want to do is you want to
apply the
wax polish,
allow it to dry,
and then just put a little bit of
water
on the toe cap itself.
Dab a little bit of Saphir Pate
de Luxe.
You’re just going to buff the toe
cap using
light to medium pressure,
a little bit of water,
until a high shine begins
to develop.
You’re going to repeat this process
until
reach your desired level of shine.
Developing a high shine on the toes
just
takes patience and time.
It’s not something that you can rush
and in the beginning it’s going to
look like you’re making
no progress.
But then it all comes together right
at
the end.
Ok so I’ve got that first coat
of the Pate de Luxe Wax Polish
developed
and nice shine.
Now this is the point where I’m
going to bring in the
mirror glass.
This is a new tin of our dark
brown Mirror Gloss, it’s one of the
newest colors
we’ve added.
The Saphir Medaille d’Or
Mirror Gloss is really a quite
incredible product,
it’s a product that we had Saphir
developed
especially for us
and it has a much higher
concentration
of hard waxes
and a much lower concentration of
the solvents.
So it’s a totally different wax than
the
PAte de Luxe
and it’s perfect for just developing
that foundation of the mirror shine.
So what I’m going to do is I’m going
to use the Saphir
Mirror Gloss to develop that
foundation
of hard waxes
and then I like to come on top
of it using that Pate de Luxe
which has a higher solvent
concentration
and really buff it to
a nice high shine.
I find that the solvents in the
Pate de Luxe almost melt the waxes
and that’s what allows it to really
buff
to high shine.
I
have a nice coat of the Mirror Gloss
applied
to this cap, now I’m gonna set this
aside.
Because the Mirror Gloss has such
a high concentration of hard waxes
it actually dries quite quickly.
But I’m going to give it a few
minutes to dry
while I’m buffing off the first coat
of the
Pate de Luxe off the right shoe.
The Mirror Gloss is a really dry
polish that
just doesn’t have much solvents in
it.
The solvents are what’s going to
melt that
wax and really help you shine
it and produce that high gloss
shine.
So the water helps
and I find that the water
with the Pate de
Luxe Wax Polish is like magic.
That’s not to say that you couldn’t
just use
the Mirror Gloss
and a little bit of water.
You know that would work also.
I just find that the Pate de Luxe
just makes it that much more
efficient.
But I like to use the Pate de Luxe
as the first coat because again the
rich
solvents in the Pate de Luxe is
going to help penetrate
that leather.
And begin to saturate the pores
of the leather to allow you to
develop that
mirror shine.
So at its foundation the mirror
gloss process
is really a three step process in
and of itself.
First you prime the leather using
the more solvent rich Pate
de Luxe then you begin to build
that foundation of hard wax is using
the Saphir Mirror Gloss
and then you finish it off
with just a little bit of water
and a tiny amount of Pate de Luxe
to really glacage
and elevate that high shine.
So we’re on the third step of this
process
so I’m going to apply a little bit
of water to my chamois.
Just just enough to dab
my Pate de Luxe wax polish
and then I’m going to begin to buff
those hard waxes
and the Mirror Gloss to shine.
Now again this is the part of the
process that
you really can’t rush.
You want to use light pressure
a little bit of water just a little
bit of a Pate de
Luxe Wax Polish because you want to
pick up those solvents
and you’re just going to watch this
kind of melt
the waxes
into a beautiful high gloss shine.
And you just need patience,
with enough time that
high shine really will come through.
And then of course depending on the
desired
level of shine you can do this
multiple
times.
So depending on the desired depth of
shine You can repeat this process
as many times as you’d like.
Once you begin to feel your chamois
drag
across the leather that’s the point
you need to add
a little bit more water just to
help lubricate the chamois
and to prevent it from scratching
or disrupting this nice
mirror gloss surface you’re begining
to develop.
So what you’re doing at a
fundamental level here
is you’re filling the pores
of the open grain leather
with wax and that’s what allows you
to create
a smooth surface that shines.
And so as you do this you have to
apply
the wax polish,
allow it to dry,
and then buff it to a shine,
and you’re essentially just building
a bunch
of layers until finally
it’s completely glassy smooth
and that’s what creates a mirror
shine.
Now it’s not to say that you’d have
to spend 30
minutes doing this
or an hour.
Even just a little bit
of work like what you see I’m doing
right
here develops enough
of a high shine that the cap
really begins to stand out from the
rest
of the shoe.
And that to me is really the goal
that you’re going
for here you just want enough of a
shine
that the cap stands out
and someone can tell that you spent
a little bit of
extra time actually
shining your shoes.
You’ll never see anything like this
at a shoe
stand because anyone
that’s shining a pair of shoes in a
shoeshine stand
is just looking to do
the shoe shine process as quickly
as possible.
So this is something you’re really
only going to do
yourself.
You’re not going to find anyone
that’s going to spend
30, 45 minutes
shining your shoes for you.
Part of the hazard of developing a
high shine in the cap is you can
really get
sucked into this you can just
absolutely fall
into it end
up spending, it’s
almost hypnotizing, you get
hypnotized
by the shoe
and end up spending way more time
developing the mirror shine than you
intended on the onset
and that’s half the fun.
I mean once you really learn how to
shine
a pair of shoes you begin
to really enjoy it.
I mean I find it to be tremendously
therapeutic.
And you know whenever I’m wearing my
shoes
I just have a different level of
pride
knowing that you know I’ve taken
great
care of them
and that they look absolutely
incredible.
I’ve truly been surprised as I’ve
traveled
around the world,
the number of gentlemen
that I’ve met that you would
never suspect actually
enjoy shining their shoes
themselves.
And these are people that you know
have the means
to easily pay someone else to do it,
yet it’s something that they prefer
to do themselves.
It should also not come as a
surprise
that a man
with a properly shined pair of shoes
is always treated better
than one without.
Whether it’s at the airport
or at a restaurant.
You can always see whenever someone
glances
down and takes a look at your shoes.
OK I’m getting carried away I’m
going to have
to stop myself
but I’ve got an absolutely
incredible
shine here.
I could easily spend another 10
or 15 minutes
and get this to be like glass.
But in the interest of this video
I’m going to set
this one aside
and begin working on the right shoe.
So I finished doing the mirror shine
on
the cap toe have these Park Avenues.
And again this is really
something you can fall into
and just lose track of time.
So I always try to step away from
the mirror
shine process which is to give me a
little
separation from the shoe.
Sometimes I’ll even put them on the
floor
to look at them from a realistic
distance
because inevitably if you’re doing
the mirror shine
and it’s right in front of your eyes
you’re going to see tiny
imperfections in the mirror shine
that just aren’t going to make a
difference
in the big scheme of things once
you’re wearing the shoes.
I’m going to replace these Park
Avenues using
our Sovereign Grade shoelaces
that we have made exclusively for
us.
Here at The Hanger Project,
we’re proud to have one of the
widest
and most comprehensive collection of
dress shoe laces available anywhere
in the world.
All of our Sovereign Grade Laces are
made exclusively
for us and Northampton,
which is the center of the British
shoe
making industry
and they’re made to the just the
absolute highest
quality standard.
Unquestionably prefer our Sovereign
Grade
Laces to the standard laces that
come
in the Allen Edmonds shoes
because it’s woven
with a much finer thread
and it just produces a more elegant
lace to me than the standard
Allen Edmond one.
If you have any questions about
which size
shoelace to choose,
just take a look at our sizing guide
that we have
on every shoelace listing.
I chose 80 centimeters for this shoe
because
it’s a size 10
and has six eyelets so it’s going to
consume
a little bit more shoelace than
a standard five eyelet shoe would.
My preferred method for lacing shoes
is with the straight across
or barbell method.
Just because I find it’s much
neater.
We have a full video on how to do
this on our YouTube
channel.
But the general format is quite
easy.
You want to start the laces
and get them to be approximately the
same length.
Now,
I’ve never been able to lace my
shoes
and end up with them exactly
at the same length in the first
time.
I would say don’t worry too much
about that you could always
adjust the final length after you’re
done.
And then what you’re going to do is
you’re going to go across
and up.
And then back down through the
eyelet.
And then this is the important part
you alternate,
and you’re skipping every other row.
So I’m skipping from here
to here.
And then going down.
Up. Aross.
Down.
Out.
I’m going to insert the shoe tree.
And then I’m going to tie the shoe
using our Berluti
Knot.
Now we have a video on the website
on how
to do this.
Of all of the different lacing
methods, the Berluti knot
unquestionably
is my favorite.
Because one, it is in effect
a double knot.
And then secondly it is
the most symmetric
of all the different knots.
And how you tie your shoelace,
again it’s just one of those small
little differentiators that kind of
sets
you apart from the rest of the
crowd.
As you can see even a new pair of
Allen Edmonds can use a first
polish.
Just spending a little bit of extra
time polishing
these new shoes has transformed
what was a beautiful pair of Allen
Edmonds
to an absolutely incredible pair
that is really going to stand out in
a crowd
of other shoes.
The extra time spent developing the
mirror shine
in the cap really to me is the final
touch
that sets these shoes apart.
I mean having a nice shine on a pair
of shoes certainly
is going to set you apart from 99
percent
of the other men out there.
But having a nice mirror shine on
the
toe is that final extra
step that just really takes these
shoes
into the stratosphere.
I can’t impress to you enough how
big
a difference a little bit of shoe
polish makes on
even a new pair of shoes.
Just to summarize how to shine a new
pair of
Allen Edmonds.
First we started
with the Saphir Renovateur to
provide the deep
nourishment and conditioning to the
leather.
Then I used two coats of the Saphir
Pommadier Cream Polish,
again that pigmented cream polish is
going
to help renew the finish
and then begin to add those soft
waxes
that’s going to elevate the shine.
Then I applied one coat to the
entire
shoe using the Saffir Pate de
Luxe, again the hard waxes are going
to elevate that shine even further,
and then the next step is I elevated
the shine
on the toe. The hard countered part
of the
shoe to a nice mirror shine using
a three step process,
alternating between the Saphir Pate
de Luxe,
the Mirror Gloss,
and back to the Pate de Luxe.
And the last step of any new shoe
shine
with a pair of Allen Edmonds is to
switch
out the laces
with a pair of our Sovereign Grade
laces.
An old worn pair of shoe laces can
even
make a beautifully polished pair of
shoes
look shabby.
So that’s why I always recommend
switching out
the standard shoe laces
with a pair of our premium Sovereign
Grade shoelaces.
If you have any questions about
anything I discuss
in this video please ask them in the
comments section
below. I get back to all those
questions
personally
and of course please visit
hangerproject.com
where we have the largest,
most comprehensive collection of
luxury garment care
and shoe care accessories in the
world
as well as other accessories for the
well-dressed.
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I’m Kirby Allison
and we love helping the well-dressed
take care
of their wardrobes.
Thanks for joining us.


How To Shine A New Pair of Allen Edmonds


All credits go to Kirby Allison